This Handy Homeowner Girl Needs Some Help!

23 02 2010

All you handy homeowners out there, I have a question for you.  I’ve found in the last few months that my shower doesn’t get very hot unless I’ve run water somewhere else in the house for a while - like, if I run the dishwasher or washing machine, I can get a nice hot shower.  But if the shower is the first thing I run, it only stays lukewarm.  And since I feel like I haven’t been warm since October, this makes me a bit miserable.

I don’t remember it always being this way, and I’m wondering if it’s something to do with my hot water heater, or maybe something else. Or if I just have to live with it.  Has this happened to anyone else?  Suggestions? Help!





Replacing a Broken Toilet Handle

18 12 2009

A few months ago, right around the time I decided to start this blog, I was jiggling the handle of my downstairs toilet to get it to stop running.  I had the top of the tank off, so I was looking at it, and watched as the plastic flush lever snapped. 

Crap! I immediately thought.  What now?

First, I tried my go-to fix, duct tape.  But that didn’t hold the pieces securely enough for the lever to continue working.  So then, it was on to my next handy tool, the Internet.  I found this great how-to with photos on hammerzone.com (http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/bath/fixt_repair/toilet/flush_lever/broken.htm).  I’ll use their pictures to illustrate here, because I didn’t think to take any of my own at the time. 

Plastic flush lever is snapped - Uh oh!

Before touching anything, I called my dad to make sure he thought it was a job I should tackle by myself.  The skill level was considered “basic” so I thought I could handle it, and he agreed.  So then it was off to Lowes for a new handle.  The handle on there had been a basic plastic one, which depressed me anyway, so I ended up with a lovely shiny one – I had wanted to get one that was brushed nickel, but since the other metal in my bathroom is all high shine, that’s what I had to stick with. 

Then, it was time to get started.  The handle is attached to the toilet with a plastic nut, which is a left-hand thread, so it’s backwards to normal nuts.  So instead of the usual “righty-tighty, lefty-loosey,” it’s the other way around to loosen it.  I removed the plastic nut first (make sure to see Hammer Zone’s note on metal threads if you have an older toilet), and pulled out the broken toilet handle. 

Be careful not to tighten the nut instead of loosening it

Mine was also square

Next, it was time to install the new flush lever.

Mine was similar to this, but came with an angled metal lever instead of a straight one.

It took some time to angle the flush lever through the hole from the previous handle and fit the square piece correctly.  Take your time with this, because it’s worth a little patience.

Mine was angled, so it took a little longer

Before doing anything else, you have to put the left-hand thread nut back on the handle to hold it in place.  Just finger tighten it, because you can break the plastic if you overtighten.

Handle is installed - next, attaching it to the flush mechanism!

In Hammer Zone’s instructions, he has some trouble with the flush lever interfering with the the ball float, but I didn’t have that problem.  I also didn’t need to drain the tank to complete the next part.  I took the chain off of the old plastic lever and threw that away.

It's easier to work deeper in the toilet tank for this part, so you're not constantly running the water

Then, I hooked the chain into one of the holes in the flush lever.  I tried to make sure there wouldn’t be too much slack in the chain and that it would pull the flapper straight up. 

It can take a few tries to get this just right

If there’s slack in the chain, you can remove the hook and move it further down the chain to reduce the slack. 

Too much slack can keep the flapper from closing properly

You can then hook the end of the extra chain back onto the hook to keep it out of the way

Checking the chain length may not seem that important, but Hammer Zone says, “When the chain has too much slack, it will often lay underneath the flapper valve as the flapper falls back into place. When this happens the water will continue to flow into the bowl forever, or until someone “flicks” the handle.”  Also, with respect to this step, they tell us:

“Chain Length and Position May Be Important:

It’s best to attach the chain so it pulls the flapper straight up, if possible. If the chain tends to pull the flapper sideways, the flexible runner may break eventually.

If the chain is hooked to the end-most hole in the lever, the lever might hit the tank lid before the chain is able to lift up the flapper.

When I repair the lever or flapper valve, I always do a few test flushes to make sure the linkage is working properly and the chain is not interfering with the closing of the flapper.”

Once I’d checked everything, it was time to test out the new handle.  I flushed the toilet a few times to make sure it was working correctly, and it was.  Job complete!

Thanks Hammer Zone for helping me install my new toilet handle!





Changing A Shower Curtain Liner

19 11 2009

This is a very basic post, but I didn’t want to make assumptions that everyone would already know how to do this!  I have heard that you can prolong the life of your shower curtain liner by putting it in the washing machine and hanging it up to dry, but I haven’t tried that yet.  Instead, this weekend, I picked up a new liner to replace the one I’ve been using.

It’s a fairly simple process to replace the liner.  I first unhooked each of my shower hooks – mine work by pressing on the top of the metal hook so that it comes out from behind the clasp.

Unhooking

(Unfortunately, this picture came out a little blurry - that's what I get for taking a natural light shot in my very dark shower!)

Once they were all unhooked…

All unhooked

…I pulled off the old shower curtain liner.  Fortunately, none of my rings jumped off the rod!

Pulling off old liner

Then, I hooked on the new liner…

New liner

….closed each of the hooks again…

Re-hooking

…and voila! I had a clean new shower curtain liner installed!

New liner!

There seems to be a dispute over how often you need to change the liner – some people think every three or six months, some say once a year, some say only when it’s grody (my word).  I think it’s something that you can usually tell for yourself and will differ based on household shower usage and the type of water you have.  For me, I changed mine because it was looking a little grody, which was about a year’s usage.





Adding Privacy Liners to Blinds

18 11 2009

When I moved in to my new house, I felt very fortunate that I had blinds already installed because I knew that they could be a costly investment to start out with!  But that good fortune turned to disappointment when I realized that the previous owner had never cleaned them.  Because they are not my style and because she had three cats living here (and I’m allergic – and I suspect that’s part of my dog’s allergies too, poor guy), I decided to replace them room by room.  I particularly love the bamboo shades I replaced them with in my bedroom and bathroom – they make me happy every time I see them.

My lovely shades

However, my excitment over the shades was tempered when I realized that although aesthetically pleasing, they weren’t exactly private.  My parents have similar shades in their living room, and pointed out to me that particularly at night, with the lights on, you can pretty much see everything in the room.  Definitely not ideal for a bedroom and bathroom. Particularly, when the house behind me is where my creepy neighbor lives and I’m not entirely sure he doesn’t spend his days attempting to look into my house.  I finally picked up some privacy liners for the shades this weekend, and after some careful review of the instructions and installing them, they gave me an incredible measure of relief!

I started by taking the shades down (in a future post, I’ll talk about installing them, hopefully when I put them up in my office!).  It’s a fairly easy process – I just lift up the bamboo flap covering the top brace and there are two nuts and bolts holding up the shade.  I just loosened the right one a little…

RHS

…and then took off the left one, so that I could remove the shade. 

LHS

The next step is to lay the shade on a flat surface, with the side of the shade that faces into your home facing down.  It’s probably easier to work on a hard surface like the floor or a table, but I used my bed since it was convenient and my sheets were in the wash.

Flat surface

Next, I took the liner out of the packaging and read through the instructions.  I first had to remove the velcro tab from the liner and carefully affix it to the top of the shade.

Affixing liner

Once it was attached, I used the included nails to further secure it to the shade, starting three inches from each side, and then spacing them evenly across the top.

Spacing nails

All nailed

The next step was to attach the liner to the velcro strip, and stretch it evenly over the shade.

Stretched evenly

Then, it’s necessary to affix the bolster strips on the liner to the shade itself, so that it correctly folds when I open it. I rolled up the liner to reveal the top bolster strip, made sure that it was properly stretched and flat, and then, about three to four inches in from the side, I planned to attach it to the bamboo blinds.

Bolster 1

To attach it to the blinds, the liner comes with several plastic ties.  The tie is pushed through the blind to the front…

Tie to the front

…and then pushed back through another slat to the back. 

Tie to the back

Then, you push the tie through a small loop on the bolster…

Through the little loop

and push it together.  It doesn’t work like a zip tie, in that the end doesn’t push all the way through so that you can tighten this. 

All together!

(Sorry this is a little blurry - I got a little closer than my little camera was happy with!)

I assume that’s to allow for some give, so that the shade doesn’t pull.  For larger shades, they say over 37″, you’ll need to repeat this process for the middle of the shade, as well as the other side.  Since I was working with small shades, I only needed to repeat it on the other side.  I continued for the remaining three bolsters, smoothed out the fabric again, and re-hung the shade.  You can really see the difference between the shade in my guest room with no liner, and the shade in my bathroom!

Without liner

Guest room, without liner

With liner

Bathroom, with liner

So now I can be comfortable in my own home, without worrying about my creepy neighbor.  I plan to replace the shades in my living room and dining room eventually, and will definitely be getting these privacy liners to keep would-be peeping toms guessing!





Installing a New Showerhead

16 11 2009

When I moved into my house just over a year ago, I was very unhappy with the showerhead in my upstairs shower.  My mom thought it was great, because it has a few different settings, but since it’s plastic, I just thought of it as grody (that’s my favorite word lately for things that I think are gross).  I had a feeling changing out the showerhead would be an easy project, once I got around to doing it, and Bob Vila agreed, rating this as a “beginner” project on his website.  So now that I’m feeling a little better (I had the bronchitis) and was actually home on a weekend, I decided to include this in my to do list for the weekend.

First, I picked up the materials that I would need.  Before you head out to your local store, double check how your current showerhead is attached.  If it’s a square neck, you can use an adjustable wrench, but if it’s a round neck, you’ll need a strap wrench.  Mine was a square neck, so I put an adjustable wrench on my list.  I also needed a showerhead, of course, and was overwhelmed by the choices when I got there.  It’s definitely an individual choice, so after some back and forth, I finally decided on a Moen with three settings.  Another important thing you’ll need is plumbers tape – this is to wrap the threads of the shower stem to keep any water from coming out.  Some showerheads will come with what the guy at Lowe’s called a “baby roll” of plumbers tape (which mine did), but make sure to check before you leave the store. 

Bob Vila also suggests that you take this as an opportunity to replace your shower stem and collar (the handy little metal disk that sits up against the wall) if they’re pitted or corroded.  I didn’t do that this time, but I might in the near future.

When I was ready to start my project, I set out everything I would need and got started.  I’m pretty tall, but I still needed to stand on the sides of the tub to get a good view of the showerhead in order to remove it.  You might want to think about putting a step stool in the tub for more stability. 

Old Showerhead

Here's the old showerhead

The first step is to remove the old showerhead (remembering the old rule “righty tighty, lefty loosey” if you’re like me and always tightening things instead loosening them.  In this case, “lefty” is also counterclockwise).  Once you’ve removed the showerhead, it’s important to remove any traces of plumbers tape or sealant left behind on the threads.  I was able to do this with my fingernails, but I think a good stiff toothbrush would also do the trick if you’re having trouble.  If you are planning to replace the shower stem, check out Bob Vila’s step by step guide here.  He does suggest turning off your water before starting this project, but I didn’t do that, and it wasn’t any trouble.

Once you’ve cleaned off the tape and/or sealant, you’re ready to install the new showerhead. 

Clean shower stem

My shower stem, all cleaned off. You can see it's starting to corrode, so next on my list is replacing the stem

The next step is to wrap the plumbers tape around the exposed threads.  The tape should be wrapped clockwise, twice around the threads.

Wrap tape clockwise around the threads

The tape should be wrapped clockwise around the threads

The tape is not too thick, but I used a pair of scissors to cut it.  You’ll want to have those handy to make it easier!

Finally, it was time to put the new showerhead on!

new showerhead

New showerhead - yay!

Although this part might seem the easiest, it’s also a spot where mistakes can happen.  You want to be sure not to cross-thread the showerhead and shower stem, so carefully align the showerhead and hand-tighten it on to start.  Then, you can tighten it further using your wrench (I again needed the adjustable wrench to tighten this showerhead).

Installed

It's all installed!

Finally, you do want to turn the water on at this point to check for any leaks.  Then your new showerhead is ready to use! 

All done

Looks good!