Adding Privacy Liners to Blinds

18 11 2009

When I moved in to my new house, I felt very fortunate that I had blinds already installed because I knew that they could be a costly investment to start out with!  But that good fortune turned to disappointment when I realized that the previous owner had never cleaned them.  Because they are not my style and because she had three cats living here (and I’m allergic – and I suspect that’s part of my dog’s allergies too, poor guy), I decided to replace them room by room.  I particularly love the bamboo shades I replaced them with in my bedroom and bathroom – they make me happy every time I see them.

My lovely shades

However, my excitment over the shades was tempered when I realized that although aesthetically pleasing, they weren’t exactly private.  My parents have similar shades in their living room, and pointed out to me that particularly at night, with the lights on, you can pretty much see everything in the room.  Definitely not ideal for a bedroom and bathroom. Particularly, when the house behind me is where my creepy neighbor lives and I’m not entirely sure he doesn’t spend his days attempting to look into my house.  I finally picked up some privacy liners for the shades this weekend, and after some careful review of the instructions and installing them, they gave me an incredible measure of relief!

I started by taking the shades down (in a future post, I’ll talk about installing them, hopefully when I put them up in my office!).  It’s a fairly easy process – I just lift up the bamboo flap covering the top brace and there are two nuts and bolts holding up the shade.  I just loosened the right one a little…

RHS

…and then took off the left one, so that I could remove the shade. 

LHS

The next step is to lay the shade on a flat surface, with the side of the shade that faces into your home facing down.  It’s probably easier to work on a hard surface like the floor or a table, but I used my bed since it was convenient and my sheets were in the wash.

Flat surface

Next, I took the liner out of the packaging and read through the instructions.  I first had to remove the velcro tab from the liner and carefully affix it to the top of the shade.

Affixing liner

Once it was attached, I used the included nails to further secure it to the shade, starting three inches from each side, and then spacing them evenly across the top.

Spacing nails

All nailed

The next step was to attach the liner to the velcro strip, and stretch it evenly over the shade.

Stretched evenly

Then, it’s necessary to affix the bolster strips on the liner to the shade itself, so that it correctly folds when I open it. I rolled up the liner to reveal the top bolster strip, made sure that it was properly stretched and flat, and then, about three to four inches in from the side, I planned to attach it to the bamboo blinds.

Bolster 1

To attach it to the blinds, the liner comes with several plastic ties.  The tie is pushed through the blind to the front…

Tie to the front

…and then pushed back through another slat to the back. 

Tie to the back

Then, you push the tie through a small loop on the bolster…

Through the little loop

and push it together.  It doesn’t work like a zip tie, in that the end doesn’t push all the way through so that you can tighten this. 

All together!

(Sorry this is a little blurry - I got a little closer than my little camera was happy with!)

I assume that’s to allow for some give, so that the shade doesn’t pull.  For larger shades, they say over 37″, you’ll need to repeat this process for the middle of the shade, as well as the other side.  Since I was working with small shades, I only needed to repeat it on the other side.  I continued for the remaining three bolsters, smoothed out the fabric again, and re-hung the shade.  You can really see the difference between the shade in my guest room with no liner, and the shade in my bathroom!

Without liner

Guest room, without liner

With liner

Bathroom, with liner

So now I can be comfortable in my own home, without worrying about my creepy neighbor.  I plan to replace the shades in my living room and dining room eventually, and will definitely be getting these privacy liners to keep would-be peeping toms guessing!





Lighting a Fire in Your Fireplace

17 11 2009

When I was looking at houses, a fireplace was never on my “must have” list, but I was very excited when my eventual home ended up having one.  During the inspection, the home inspector pointed out a small crack at the back of the fireplace, and suggested that I have a cleaner come to inspect it further before lighting a fire.  I finally got around to doing that last week and learned that because the fireplace is a pre-fabricated one, that’s common.  Unfortunately, the company that makes them is out of business, so it would be difficult to replace that back panel, which is where most of the heat during a fire resides.  He reassured me that it’s not a danger at this point and that I could still have a fire without burning my house down (phew!), but in the future, I’ll need to consider having him come back to seal up the crack and put in a heat reflector/shield, which will protect that back panel from further damage.  I certainly plan to do that, but not for a few months at least.

In the meantime, I can still enjoy a nice, cozy, crackling fire!

So in my weekend travels, I picked up a couple of small bundles of wood (not the most economical way of doing it, but I plan to only have a few fires).  I already had fatwood at home, which is a natural fire starter, so I didn’t pick up any of those lighter logs.  I called my parents to double-check the process and then got started.  I also made sure to have fireplace tools on hand, in case the logs shifted and I needed to move one.

When I had my fireplace cleaned, I learned that my grate was slightly too big (making it a bit of a jiggle to get the doors closed).  I did use the big grate for my first fire, but plan to measure the space and replace it soon.  My dad suggested that I start with four logs, the first two placed horizontally, with a little bit of space between them:

Two logs

The next two logs should be place at an angle, to allow for some room between them all:

Three logs

Four logs

Once the logs were set up, I checked to make sure the flue was open – this is key, because that’s how the smoke escapes your house.  Before you light the fire, check to make sure the flue is open!

Flue is open!

Then, I lit my first piece of fatwood and got ready for my fire!

Fatwood is lit!

I inserted it towards the back of the fireplace, between the top and bottom rows of logs, to help it set them afire.  I then lit another piece of fatwood and repeated the process on the other side so that it would burn evenly.

Starting to smoke!

It's starting to smoke!

Finally, the fire started to get going.

Just a little

Then it caught on a little more.

More fire

Finally, it was a beautiful fire!  I made sure to pull the metal curtains closed so that a certain curious basset hound of mine wouldn’t be tempted to check it out, though it turned out he wasn’t interested in the fire at all!

My first fire!

I was very excited to have my first fire, and look forward to many more successful cozy ones this winter!





Let’s Paint! Part III – Prepping & Painting

4 09 2009

So finally, let’s paint!  Once you’ve got all of your painting supplies, it’s time to find some time to dedicate to painting.  I painted at night after work and on the weekends, which worked great for me.  However, I do recommend that if you’re painting a room a dark color at night, wait to put away all of your supplies until you’ve seen it in the light of day.  You may just spot a section of the wall that could use another coat!

Paint always looks different at night than it does in other lights

Paint always looks different at night than it does in other lights

But before you get out your paintbrushes and rollers, you’ll want to prep the walls.  Some people wash the walls, and in the “cat room,” as I like to refer to the guest room, I did have to do that.  But at the minimum, you will want to lightly dust the walls to get rid of any cobwebs in an older house or drywall dust in a newer one.  In a newer house, you may be lucky enough to have no nicks or scratches in the walls.  But in a house that is previously owned, there is likely to be nail holes, gouges from furniture moves, etc.  In that case, you’ll want to get some spackle and a putty knife, along with some sandpaper (I used a sandpaper block for ease).  I found some spacklel that starts out hot pink, and becomes white as it dries, so that you know when it’s ready to paint over.  Spackling is best for smaller repairs, so if you recently punched a hole in your wall because, say, the electrician overcharged you, you’re going to need to do a little bit of a larger repair.

But for smaller holes, spackling is pretty easy - I’ll describe how I’ve done it, but I plan to detail it with pictures (and maybe video!) in a future post.  I started by running the sandpaper block over the hole to get rid of any excess roughness that might stick out and interfere with the smoothness of the final repair.  Wipe away any dust created and use your putty knife to apply the spackle. For holes from hanging pictures, you won’t need that much spackle, maybe the equivalent of a dime (use more spackle for larger holes and don’t be afraid to use too much – you can always wipe it away).  Use the putty knife to wipe the spackle into the hole, and then, after wiping any excess off the knife and back into the container, run the edge of the knife over the hole, to level off the spackle with the wall.  Then, if you’re using pink spackle like me, wait for it to turn white and dry.  Even if you’re not using pink spackle, you’ve got to wait for it to dry!  If you need to, you can repeat the process for a second coat of spackle.  Once it dries, use your sandpaper block to make sure that it’s level with the wall.  Wipe it with a damp cloth again to make sure that the paint will go over it without having any dirt or dust stick to it, and then, you’re almost ready to paint!

Make sure to put on some old clothes and keep these as your “painting clothes” – it’s like having to put something down to cover the floor: no matter how careful you are, you will likely get paint on yourself at some stage.  If you have furniture in the room, move it as far away from the walls as you can, and cover it with a drop cloth.  In a smaller room, you may have to do one wall at a time, moving furniture as you go.  Remove all of the outlet covers and switchplates, as well as any vents – a word of caution here: be very, very careful when removing switchplates and outlet covers.  Because there are live wires behind here, there is always the possibility for electrocution (especially since you’re using a metal screwdriver to remove them).  I got a little jolt replacing a switchplate in my kitchen a few months ago(which, on a side note, likely requires a professional fix as it’s now stopped working but the fuse hasn’t blown), so just be mindful that you’re still dealing with electricity.

Can you tell this room was crying out for a paint job?

Can you tell this room was crying out for a paint job?

Once you’ve got the walls as bare as possible, cover the floor and get out your paint can (if you’re using a primer, just follow these directions for the first coat of primer, then start with your paint once it dries).  I put my paint can on top of a piece of cardboard to give it a little stability and protect the floor from any paint seepage.  When you bought your paint, the store should have given you a wooden stirrer to mix up the paint that has settled on the way home.  They should also have given you a little tool, like a tiny can opener, that will help you to open the paint lid.  If they didn’t, a flat head screwdriver works well in a pinch.  Stir the paint around with the wooden stirrer, put the liner in your paint pail, and break out the brushes!  I always start with “cutting in,” which is painting around the edges of the room – this includes going around the switches and outlets.  The purpose of this is to give you a nice edge so that you’re not rolling paint right up to the edge.  You’ll also want to cut in at the corners of the room too. 

Once you’ve cut in the whole room (or just the wall you plan to work on), get out the paint tray, liner and rollers.  I like to fill the tray well with quite a bit of paint (though certainly not to the top!) and roll my roller in it until it’s evenly coated.  You want to make sure to roll off as much of the excess paint as you can so that you’re not dripping paint, but you still want to have enough paint on the roller so you’re not constantly reapplying it.  All the home shows that I’ve watched recommend that you roll in a “w,” but I found my own rhythm and methods and I’m sure you will too.  If you’re rolling a darker color, keep an eye on the wall as you go – rollers will often miss some wall imperfections, so you’ll want to make sure that those get covered, or you’ll end up like me, always looking at the few white dots on my bedroom wall. 

After you’ve finished your first coat, you’ve got to let it dry before doing the second.  I did at least two coats of paint in every room of the house, but it’s up to you how many coats you think are necessary.  Generally, if you’re painting a whole room (instead of just one wall at a time), the paint on the first wall you painted will have already dried by the time you finish the last wall, so you can just keep going.  But some of that will depend on the time of year that you’re painting – I was working in late September/early October, so the humidity was low and it was nice and cool – great painting conditions! 

When you’ve finally painted enough coats that you’re satisfied with the color (always keeping in mind that paint dries darker than it is applied), it’s time for clean up.  If you’re using acrylic paint (which is what I used and recommend), cleaning is easy.  Throw out the tray and pail liners and rinse your brushes and rollers in the sink.  I dried mine on the counter on a paper towel, but quickly learned that the absorbent paper towels would soak in the tinted water from the rollers (remember I said I could never get them fully clean?) and almost ended up staining my light countertops.  So you may want to throw a piece of cardboard under there, or dry them outside if you can.  When the paint in your room is all dry, take up your drop cloths, move your furniture back, and enjoy your hard work!

I'm happy with this lovely little corner of my office

I'm happy with this lovely little corner of my office





Let’s Paint! Part II – Painting Supplies

1 09 2009

Once you’ve chosen your colors, it’s time to head back to the hardware/paint store and pick up your paint and supplies.  When I painted my townhouse, I went to my local Lowe’s, but there can be a lot of benefit to going to a store specializing in paint – if you’re working on a special project (such as any faux finish) or if you want to talk to an expert about how many coats of paint you might need or what primers they recommend, it’s best to check out a paint store.  The people who work there are experts and in my experience, are always helpful – when I painted my bedroom at my parents’ house with a faux finish a few years ago, my local paint store was invaluable.

Here's how the faux finish turned out - thanks to help from my local paint store!

Here's how the faux finish turned out - thanks to help from my local paint store!

But for this last painting whirlwind, I headed to Lowe’s and started at the paint counter. I handed over my paint samples and told them how much paint I wanted and then headed to the other aisles to pick up my supplies while my paint was being mixed.

And here’s where I’ll insert two words of caution – 1) Before you go to pick up your paint, decide which rooms you’re going to paint and buy the paint AS NEEDED.  I bought all of my paint at once which was mostly not a problem because I painted almost my entire house in a two-week period.  However, the two bathrooms ended up being projects that I put off and that meant my paint wasn’t as in good shape after sitting in a closet for about six months.  Although it worked out fine, I definitely recommend deciding how much time and energy you have for painting, and then prioritizing the paint jobs accordingly.  2) Once you’ve decided which rooms you’re painting, know the dimensions of the rooms!  In fact, it helps to have this written down somewhere anyway and keep it with you whenever you’re home shopping (or maybe all the time).  It’s frustrating to be out somewhere thinking, I could pick up those blinds today, if only I knew the dimensions of the windows!  And even when you think you’ll just remember, you never do - I’ve found when it comes to my house, I’ve always got so much on my mind that I never remember the little details! 

The size of your room will have an impact on how much paint you need, as will the type of mouldings you have, and how many windows and doors - for a paint calculator, check out Lowe’s.  I guesstimated the amount of paint I would need, with some input from my parents and the Lowe’s paint people, and for the most part, I was spot on.  However, I really had to stretch the last of the paint in my kitchen, so especially when you’re dealing with paint mixed on the spot, you don’t want to end up having to get it re-mixed and hoping that there aren’t any slight color variations.  Plus, it’s nice to have paint left over that you can use for touch ups (like the time I accidentally got red hair dye on the wall in the bathroom and only painting over it was going to make it better).

So let’s use my bedroom as an example – it’s 15 x 11.5 feet. I have two windows (one is smaller than the other), one bedroom door, and two closets with sliding doors.  I got two gallons of paint and did three coats (remember, I was painting it a dark eggplant color, so to get the coverage I needed, I needed more paint).  In this case, or in the case of covering up a dark colored wall (like I had to do in the living room to paint light blue over dark red), it’s advisable to get a tinted primer.  These aren’t sold on their own at Lowe’s, but need to be mixed.  Pick up the primer you want to use, and then talk to the painting experts about tinting it – this helps to alleviate the need for endless coats of paint. You don’t have to use a primer if you don’t want to – I did downstairs, but not in my bedroom – but be prepared to have to put in extra time painting multiple coats if you don’t.

So besides primer and paint, what else did I need?
- 2 paintbrushes: I got two so that if I painted one room and wanted to move on to the next, I could rinse one paintbrush and leave it to dry while using the other one.
- Paint roller & roller 3-pack: I got the three pack roller for the same reason that I got two paintbrushes – it’s easier to clean and let one dry while you’re using another one.  Plus, I never seem to be able to get them super clean, so I used one for darker paint and the other for the lighter paint.  As for rollers, some people use the roller on the end of an extension arm always (like you may have seen on some home shows). I just used the roller as is, got up on my stepladder to paint the top of the room, and it worked great for me.
- Stepladder: Unless you’re ridiculously tall (and I’m 5′9″), this will come in handy on a regular basis.  But a word of caution – a LOT of home accidents happen on stepladders, and I almost fell off of mine while painting a room (despite being cautious) so always be careful.
- Paint tray & liners: Having a paint tray is a necessity if you’re going to be using a roller, and I’ve found the liners make clean-up so much easier – no washing paint trays!
- The HANDy paint pail and liners: This was one of my best purchases thanks to a recommendation from my dad – with these, you pour the paint into the liner (keeping the pail clean for easy clean-up) and you can hook the handle right over your hand as you’re painting.  The best part? There’s a magnet inside the pail to grab onto your paint brush so you can move around easily without losing the paint brush in paint or having to hold it in your other hand.
- Drop cloths of some kind: This can take any form really, as long as you have something big to cover the floor or the section of the floor you’re working near.  In my case, I was doing most of my painting before the new carpet was put in, so I wasn’t too concerned about getting paint on the floor.  I still put a drop cloth (I’d gotten a few from uHaul when I was moving) under my paint can and rolling tray, as well as over any furniture I couldn’t move far enough away, so that any spills would be soaked into that instead of the carpet.  But I can’t emphasize enough how important covering the floor is – even if you’re careful, flecks of paint always fly off of rollers and if you’re clumsy like me, you’re likely to bump into your can of paint at least once, no matter how careful you are.  So cover the floors!!
- Extension pole: Depending on what you’re painting, you may need an extension pole.  My stairway ceiling went from the first floor to the top of the second floor, so short of building scaffolding or hiring professionals, an extension pole attached to my roller was the next best thing. 

I definitely needed an extension rod for my roller to paint this!

I definitely needed an extension rod for my roller to paint this!

As you can see from that picture, a roller with an extension pole worked great to paint this part of the hallway.  However, you can’t roll right up to the ceiling – so what’s a girl to do?  I used a paint edger.  Some people might recommend these for edging every room, but I’ve found that they soak a little bit of paint in, which then ends up on the ceiling.  This was still the case when I edged the hallway, but I had to put my perfectionist tendencies aside, realize that most people never look to the top of my hallway anyway, and know that unless I wanted it professionally done, I would have to deal with the less-than-perfect look.  Since I can reach the top of the walls in the rest of the house with a step ladder, I chose to cut in those myself instead. 

Up close - not so pretty

Up close - not so pretty

But from far away, you almost can't tell that it's not perfect!

But from far away, you almost can't tell that it's not perfect!

That covers all of the supplies I picked up before painting.  Some people also like to use blue tape or masking tape to give them a sharp edge when painting, but I’m not a big fan.  I’ve found that no matter how well I press it down when painting, some of the paint always bleeds through.  I’m a careful painter, so I can cut in and create a straight line myself with minimal trouble.  I did use blue tape in my kitchen though, when I needed to create a false boundary between my kitchen and dining room, ending the blue paint and starting the tan.  On a flat surface, which the wall was, it worked great.

In the next post, I’ll finally get into prepping the walls and painting!





Let’s Paint! Part I – Choose Your Colors

27 08 2009
When I first looked at my townhouse, I was glad I was able to see it’s potential, instead of just what was in front of me.  Because what was in front of me was one giant red wall in the center of the downstairs living space and every other wall painted just enough of an off-white to look dirty.  Minus the red wall, the whole place was just darn depressing for the first few days!  So what’s a girl to do? PAINT!
Red and dirty white. Not my favorite color combination!

Red and dirty white. Not my favorite color combination!

When painting a room, the first thing I do is choose a color. This may seem like a relatively unimportnat part of the process, but it will impact what primer you buy and how many coats of paint you’ll have to do.  But although it’s an important choice and painting is a little time consuming, the great thing about it is that if you really hate the color, it’s fairly easy to change it. 

By the time I headed to Lowe’s to look at paint samples, I had been putting together a decorating book for a while. Basically, that comprised of looking through every Pottery Barn catalogue that came in the mail and seeing what rooms most inspired me, then tearing out the pages and saving them in categories (bedroom, guest room, kitchen, bathroom, etc.).  That helped me to figure out what I liked and didn’t like, and as a result, what would make me happy in each room.  But you can be inspired in other ways too – I had picked up a shower curtain at K-Mart, mostly black, but with blue flowers stitched into a border towards the top.  When choosing a color for the bathroom, then, I matched it to those little blue flowers – since they’re small, it’s not too matchy-matchy, but it unites the bathroom.  Searching through catalogues can also give you new ideas of what works and doesn’t work – I wouldn’t have thought to put brown and light blue together, but seeing it in magazines and catalogues appealed to me and I used that combination in my living room.  I also thought that eggplant with dark furniture in a bedroom would be too dark, but in a paint sample booklet, I saw that it worked well.

Here's a sample page from my inspiration book

Here's a sample page from my inspiration book

Once I had a good idea in my head as to what colors I was looking for, I went to Lowe’s and picked out any and every sample that I was drawn to, and even a few that I wouldn’t have originally been interested in.  I didn’t buy any paint on that first visit, but instead brought all the samples home and spent the next few days wandering around my house figuring out what worked where.  I was definitely feeling impatient at the time, because the current paint was gross, I felt like things might be living in the carpet, and the whole house smelled of smoke from the previous owners, so I was ready to get painting and make it my own.  But I’m glad I took the time to pick out colors I was really satisfied with, because a year later, I’m still happy with the colors in each of the rooms. 

I picked up a LOT of samples

I picked up a LOT of samples

My paint choices:

Downstairs: For the living room/hallway/entryway, I chose a very light beachy blue: Lowe’s Valspar Cake Stand Blue

To get the airy beach feeling, I went with this very light blue

To get the airy beach feeling, I went with this very light blue

Kitchen: For the kitchen, I chose a sandy brown (ocean and sand, I do live at the beach!) because my cabinets couldn’t handle the blue and I’m not redoing the kitchen yet: Lowe’s Valspar Milk Toast

The kitchen needed a sandier color to warm up the old cabinets

The kitchen needed a sandier color to warm up the old cabinets

Downstairs Bathroom: For the downstairs bathroom, I chose a shade warmer than the Milk Toast, picked up from the stripes in my towels: Lowe’s Valspar La Fonda Boulder

Used a shade of tan pulled from the towels for this bathroom

Used a shade of tan pulled from the towels for this bathroom

Upstairs Hallway: I continued the Milk Toast throughout the upstairs hallways to unite the two floors a little (it was the color of the wall next to the stairs)
Upstairs Bathroom: As I mentioned earlier, I chose this color to match the small flowers in my shower curtain: Lowe’s Valspar Blue Twilight

I love the blue in this bathroom so much that it's my favorite room in the house!

I love the blue in this bathroom so much that it's my favorite room in the house!

Office: For my office, I wanted a warm terracotta, which would highlight the orange in my world map and travel posters: Lowe’s Valspar Pompei Orange

The terracotta of the walls picks up the orange in the artwork nicely!

The terracotta of the walls picks up the orange in the artwork nicely!

Guest room: Because the guest room is the smallest room, I wanted it to feel light, airy, and soothing for visitors, so I chose a very light green: Lowe’s Valspar Tempered Spring

The green is so light, it's hard to see it in photos

The green is so light, it's hard to see it in photos

Master Bedroom: After seeing the combination of dark furniture with an eggplant wall color, I couldn’t get the idea out of my head, so I painted my bedroom an eggplant color that makes it one of my favorite rooms in the house: Lowe’s Valspar Eddie Bauer Home Garnet

The light always brightens this in photos, but it's a much darker plum color

The light always brightens this in photos, but it's a much darker plum color

Let’s Paint! Part II will cover what supplies you’ll need.





Sealing Downstairs Air Conditioning Vents in Summer

18 08 2009

About a month ago, I was lamenting to my sister and her boyfriend about the differences in temperature between my first and second floor.  With only one zone for the air conditioner in my house (I’m fortunate enough to have central air), my single thermostat regulates the whole house.  As a result, I’m often shivering in a sweater sitting downstairs on the couch at night, but sweating in tank tops and shorts while working in my upstairs office during the day.  What to do?

My sister’s boyfriend (whose father does air conditioning/heating work) suggested I close and seal one of the AC vents downstairs.  I vaguely remember this suggestion from the inspector when I had the house checked last summer – close the upstairs vents in the winter and the downstairs ones in the summer.  This forces the heat or air conditioning (depending on the season) to bypass the closed vents and more equally cool or heat the house.  Since heat rises, this makes sense to me!

I finally got around to it this weekend, and it was a super simple process that required only a philips head screwdriver (check your vents to see what kind of screws it has), some saran wrap, and tape.  First, I chose a vent to close off – I have a pretty open floor plan downstairs, so I chose one of the two on the same wall in the dining room:

First, choose a vent

Next, I closed off the vent. I could tell why my sister’s boyfriend suggested sealing it off, because I could still feel cool air pouring out.

Vent2

Next, time to remove the vent.  The screws were very long, but easy to remove:

Unscrew

Sometimes, if you paint around the vents instead of removing them (which would be the proper way to do it) or you put them back in before the paint has had enough time to dry, they can stick to the wall a bit.  You can use a flathead screwdriver to *gently* remove them, but try not to damage the walls or you’ll find yourself doing a bit of repair work!

Removing Vent

Once you’ve pulled out your vent, tear off a piece of plastic wrap that will fit over the back of it.  I used Saran Wrap, because I think it’s stickier.  Plus, that’s what I had in the house already.

Saran wrap

At first, I thought it might be advisable to just put the vent back in and screw through the plastic, but the plastic gummed up the threads of the screws and made it almost impossible to line up the vent properly.  So I learned the hard way that you should cut the saran wrap to fit, and tape off the edges to seal it:

Taped up

Once that’s done, fit the vent back into the wall, screw the screws back in, and voila, you’re finished!  And you can’t even tell that the vent is sealed with plastic wrap.  I can feel the cooler air upstairs already…

Finished vent

* Just remember to take the plastic wrap off and open the vents when you switch over to heat in the cooler fall months.