Baby, It’s Cold Outside!

27 12 2010

I don’t know about you, but here in the northeast, it has been COLD.

I’ve been having to turn the heat up more (which I hate to do) and so my heating bills have gone up and up.  I decided to make some small changes around the house to make it a little more energy efficient in the hopes that my house will stay a little warmer.

Outlet Insulation

One of the things I picked up at Lowes were outlet and switch insulation – these are little foam pieces cut to fit in switches and outlets.

They come in a packet of six

The only tool you need is a screwdriver.  So I first unscrewed the switch cover – I should note here that apparently it’s recommended that you first turn off the power whenever doing anything with electricity (including the outlet covers).  I don’t, but I wanted to make that point!

There was no insulation in there

According to the instructions on the back of the packaging, I was first supposed to remove the insulation in there – but there wasn’t any.  What there was – a breeze.  I could feel the cold air seeping through.  So I think the insulation will be making a big difference, particularly since I have a LOT of outlets and switches in my house for some reason.

Next, insert the foam piece.

I just punched out the spot for the switch and screw holes very easily and placed the foam piece in the opening

Then, screw the cover back on – very easy.  It does add a little bit of padding, so I had to push the cover a bit to get it flush with the wall, but it came out great.

You can’t even tell that there’s insulation behind there, but it should make a big difference!  (And yes, it’s a big pet peeve of mine that the switch plate is white, while the switch is tan – that’s a theme I found in this house when I moved in, everything was painted off white or tan so it looked dirty.  Very depressing. Maybe at some stage I’ll switch these out, but it’s not a priority for me).

Sealing Windows

Something that my parents have done for years is to seal their windows using special kits from the hardware store.  I’ve noticed a definite breeze from my own windows (even though all of the upstairs windows were replaced not too long ago, I don’t think they did a very good job, since most of them are not properly sealed – allowing moisture to seep in – and there’s a breeze.  But that’s also a project for the future).

I decided that this winter, with colder and colder temps predicted, I would seal mine also.  It was a much easier process than I thought.  I started with only a few windows, since I have electric candles in some of them for the holidays and wanted to be able to turn them on until Christmas was over.  So I’ll be sealing those ones when I get back from vacation.

I purchased kits in two sizes – one for standard windows with enough tape and plastic for nine windows (I’m doing 7 windows) and two for larger size windows – the windows in my living room and dining room are four and five panel windows.

The first step is to tape around the window with the included double sided tape.  You then leave this for 15 minutes to make sure that it’s properly adhered.

I had to get a stepladder to tape the top, and it wasn't always super convenient with my window treatments, but it didn't take me too long

Once the tape is set, you start at the top of the window by peeling off the paper backing to expose the sticky side.  Adhere the plastic, with one inch overhang on each side.  Once I did the top, I did each of the sides, and then the bottom.

Taped to the top

Taped all around

As you can see from that second picture, the plastic is still very wrinkled.  As you can also see, I had to tape my shade inside of the plastic, so I won’t be able to open them until I take the plastic off in the spring. This isn’t a problem in here because that’s my bedroom.  But it might get to me in the office after a while.

Downstairs, in the living room, because of the curtains, I’ll be sealing the window with the shade up, and opening and closing the curtain to let light in or have privacy.  And since in my living room the shade is mounted outside of the windows, I can easily seal underneath it.

To finish off the project, you take a hair dryer on it’s hottest setting, and starting at one corner of the plastic, heat it until the wrinkles have disappeared.  Be careful at this point to watch the edges, because sometimes as the plastic constricts, it can let go.

Starting the process

Almost done!

Because some of my windows aren’t standard size, there was a lot of plastic left over at the bottom. So I just cut it off after sealing them up.

Here's hoping this makes the house snuggly!

Once I’m back from my holiday break, I’ll be sealing the other windows and doing a couple of other things to warm up the house.  I picked up some foam insulation for the doors – I think they’re pretty well sealed, but I’m going to double check it.  I also picked up some “draft dodgers” as they’re called for under my front and back doors.  I have to admit that they’re really annoying, because although it says they open and close easily over all floors, that’s not entirely true.

Every time I open the door and go to close it, it slides out a little so I can’t close the door. I have to open it again to push it back, and then hold up the outside piece to make sure it slides over the doorstep.  But I can feel a breeze underneath the door otherwise, so I’m willing to deal with a bit of annoyance if it helps keep my house a bit warmer!

I suppose I’ll see in the next couple of months whether or not it makes a difference in my heating bills.  What changes have you made to make your house more energy efficient for the winter?





Re-caulking the Bathtub for a Fun Saturday Night

12 04 2010

I know, I’ve been a bad blogger lately. I promise that I’ve been diligently working on a number of home projects, but blogging instead on work-related subjects over at Zen and the Art of Legal Network Maintenance. So I’ve got a lot to catch up on!

I’ll start with my project from Saturday night – re-caulking the bathtub. I know you’re jealous that I spent Saturday night scraping caulk out of the tub.  Admit it.

I had bought a tube of caulk a while ago – I went with a bright white caulk (to match the bright white grout in my tub) and made sure it was for use in the bathroom.  The existing caulking in the tub was gross – admittedly, I should have done this a while ago (like, right after I moved in), but it was only something I noticed recently and finally got around to this weekend.  Caulking is important because it helps to keep the moisture out of the seams around the tub, which can lead to mold.  I may or may not have had some mold under the caulk in my tub.

See, it's grody.

The first step is to clean out the existing caulk. I’d bought a handy little tool for this, and although it started out working okay, I later ditched it in favor of a spackel knife, which worked much better.

Handy little caulk remover tool - careful, it's sharp!

Use the pointy end to scrape out the caulk (note: this picture is just for show since I had to use both hands to try to pull the caulk out while not injuring myself)

Then, use the flat side of the tool to scrap out any excess. If your last homeowner was like mine, there will be caulk glopped everywere.

You have to be careful not to scratch the tiles up (which is why I started with the plastic tool), but it took me about 2 hours to scrape out all the caulk and using the spackel knife was much more efficient! Making sure it’s very clean is important so that the new caulk will adhere properly to the tile.

Ah, so much better already!

Once it’s all cleaned off, the instructions on the tube suggested using rubbing alcohol over the surface to make sure it’s really clean. Since it was 10pm on Saturday night by that point and I didn’t have any rubbing alcohol, I first wiped it with a sponge and then one of those clorox bleach wipes and let it thoroughly dry.  (I also wanted a little bleach to get in there in case I DID have mold)

When I was finally ready to put the new caulk in, I found myself wishing for one of those handy dandy caulk guns that push it out easily – because let me tell you, caulk is not easy to get out of the tube. I ended up twisting the tube and squeezing it that way to push the caulk out.  I decided to do the tub in sections, so that it wouldn’t dry before I was ready.  I squeezed out a section of caulk, and then wiped it into the crevice with my finger, stopping as it glopped up (technical term) to wipe my finger on a sponge.  After I rinsed the excess off the sponge, I used that to clean up any mess I’d left behind.  According to the tube, you want to do this before the caulk forms a skin.

Just after squeezing out some caulk...

After wiping it with my finger (and finishing the whole thing)

Once the entire tub is finished, you have to wait 36 hours to expose it to water or moisture. So if you don’t have a second shower or bathtub, you’ll have to visit a friend’s house or suffer through being dirty for a day and a half.  But the process is worth it – whenever I go into the bathroom, I’m so happy to see how clean my tub looks!





How to Repair a Hole in the Wall

8 02 2010

Although I’m not painting my guest room today, I thought it was the perfect opportunity to clear out the room and repair some of the holes in the walls that I’ve caused with pictures or shelves.  Once I’d taken all the pictures down, and removed my shelves, I pulled out any nails I could easily remove.  Anything that was really stuck in there, I used the end of the hammer to pull out.  I unscrewed the two bars that held up my floating shelves, and unscrewed the drywall anchors.  There were two that I couldn’t get out, either by unscrewing or with pliers, so I used my utility knife to cut off the edge sticking out from the wall and then repaired those holes as below.

The hole I had to fix

First, I prepared the wall by rubbing a sandpaper block over it to remove any rough edges. 

You don't have to use a sandpaper block, but this is what I had on hand

 

Much better!

Next, I got out my spackle and putty knife.  I use DryDex Spackle with a dry time indicator – that basically means that the spackle is pink in the can, and then once it dries on the wall and is ready for further sanding, it turns white.  Great for the amateur repair artist like me, because there’s no guesswork.

DryDex - love this stuff!

I took a little bit of spackle out of the can with my knife and wiped it into the hole (kind of like icing a cake, but you can be a little firmer with your touch since it’s a wall). 

A little dab'll do ya

The object is to get spackle into and around the hole to create a smooth surface.  With small nail holes, it’s very easy – wipe the spackle in, and then run the edge of the putty knife almost flush against the wall to remove excess.

Time to apply the spackle

But for these slightly larger holes, it didn’t work that easily.  I applied a little bit more spackle and ran the edge of the putty knife over it to get a mostly smooth finish.  Because I would later use the sandpaper again, I wasn’t worried about it being perfect.

A good start, but I still needed to apply a bit more and wipe off the excess

Better

Then, it was time to wait for it to dry.

*Almost* entirely dry. I'm a little impatient.

Once it was dry, I rubbed the sandpaper block over the spot to smooth it out. 

Time to smooth it out

And voila, finished!

Now it's ready for paint!

From what I’ve seen, this size of hole is about the largest you can fix without needing to get mesh tape to give the spackle something else to hold on to.








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